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Small, and shaped around the counter rather than a cellar: Burgundy does most of the work, with Domaine Jean Féry and Philippe Pacalet giving it more than a token presence, and Champagne sized for a menu that arrives in courses. Rolly Gassmann brings Alsace, Peyrassol the Provençal rosé, and Recas Cramele an unexpected Romanian corner nobody put there by accident. Nothing here is cheap at the entry point. Come with the tasting menu in mind — the list is short enough that fighting it costs you the better half of it.

Sixty-three bins spanning Bordeaux and Burgundy (eight entries each) with entry wines at £52 and a median of £100. Frederic Cossard appears twice across the selection. Sparkling represents 13 per cent, white and red each substantial at 33 and 44 per cent respectively. Rosé and orange each claim 5 per cent. Depth in California, Catalonia, and Burgenland remains limited to single bottles. Reach for the 1980 Hermitage La Chapelle at £360, or explore the mid-range around £75–£144 on your next visit.

A 182-bin list with 29 by-the-glass options, anchored by Burgundy's 42 references and Bordeaux's 15. Entry wines start at £47, with the median at £145 and a quarter of bottles under £88. Francois Cotat appears five times, Philipponnat four; Château d'Yquem and David Moret each claim three slots. Red and white split evenly at 38 and 37 per cent respectively, with sparkling at 13 per cent. Abruzzo, Alsace, Castilla La Mancha, Catalonia and Dao each appear once only. Drink the 1988 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage at £247, or approach by colour and price tier.